ST厦华

详解服装廓形的不同时期发展与分类,忒重要啦

项君分享于2020-06-17
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HEXINTISHI:FUZHUANGWAILUNKUO (silhouette)YUANYISHIZHIYINGXIANG、JIANYING、CEYING、LUNKUO ,ZAIFUZHUANGSHEJISHANGYINSHENWEIWAIXING、WAIKUOXIAN、DAXING、KUOXINGDENGYISI。FUZHUANGWAILUNKUOSHIYIZHONGDANYIDESECAIXINGTAI,RENYANZAIMEIYOUKANQINGKUANSHIXIJIEYIQIANSHOUXIANGANJUEDAOWAILUNKUO。

服装外轮廓 (silhouette)原意是指影像、剪影、侧影、轮廓 ,在服装设计上引申为外形、外廓线、大形、廓型等意思。服装外轮廓是一种单一的色彩形态,人眼在没有看清款式细节以前首先感觉到外轮廓。

FUZHUANGKUOXINGBIANHUADEJIGEGUANJIANBUWEI:JIAN、YAO、TUNYIJIFUZHUANGDEDIBAI。FUZHUANGKUOXINGDEBIANHUAYEZHUYAOSHIDUIZHEIJIGEBUWEIDEQIANGDIAOHUOYANGAI,YINQIQIANGDIAOHUOYANGAIDECHENGDUBUTONG,XINGCHENGLEGEZHONGBUTONGDEKUOXING。

LIUXINGKUANSHIZUIMINGXIANDETEDIANJIUSHIKUOXINGDEYANBIAN。

ST厦华 YI,FU·ZHUANG·KUO·XING·FA·ZHAN

ST厦华 15SHIJIDEFUZHUANGBAITUOZAOXIANPINGMIANSHIDEZAOXINGYIHOU,FUZHUANGLISHIJIUJINRULE“XING”HE“TI”DESUZAOSHIQI。KUOXINGYOUZUICHUDANCHUNDEJUXING,BIANCHENGLEKUAZHANGSHIDE“HUAPING”XING,YAOHETUNDEDUIBIDADAOLEJIDUANDECHENGDU。

20世纪以后,女装廓形变化更加频繁,通常是十年一个周期。

20NIANDAILIUXINGDEKUOXINGWEIXIZHANGJIANJIEDE“GUAN”ZHUANG;

40NIANDAISHIJIAOZHONGXINGHUADEHXING;

50NIANDAI,ZHANZHENGHOUDERENMENGENGJIAXIANGWANGHEPING,YOUYA、PINGHEDEAZIKUOXINGCHENGWEIZHEIGESHIQIDEZHUDAO;

80NIANDAI,JIANBUBEIGAOGAODIANQIDETZIZAOXINGCHENGWEIDANGSHIFUSHIXINGXIANGDEDAIBIAO;

90NIANDAIZHIJIN,ZAIRENMENCHUANZHEGENGJIAGEXINGHUAHEFENGGEDUOBIANDEQINGKUANGXIA,KUOXINGDELIUXINGZHOUQIJINYIBUSUODUAN。

1900NIANDAIDEFUZHUANGKUOXING

ST厦华 SHIJIAN:WEIDUOLIYASHIQI(1900~1914NIAN),BEICHENGZUO“SHEHUANIANDAI”。ZHEIYISHIQIDESHISHANGGUIZESHIYANGEHEJUJINDE。BUFUCONGZHEIXIEGUIZEKENENGBEISHEHUIPAICHI,YINWEIFUZHUANGDAIBIAOZHEYIGERENDENIANLING、DIWEI、SHEHUIJIECENG。

KUOXING:ZAIZHEIGESHIQI,CHUANZHEJINSHENXIONGYIDENVZHUANGKUOXINGSHISXINGHUOSHALOUXING,JINSHENXIONGYIBAOKUOXIANXIDEYAOBUHEYUZHIXIANGLIANDEXIONGBU,BINGYUHUNYUANDETUNBUXIANGPINGHENG。RUGUOTUNBUQUXIANBUMINGXIAN,JIUYAOZAIQUNZIXIAMIANZENGJIAYIGETUNDIANZUOWEIZHICHENG。

PEIJIAN:ZHUANGSHIXINGJIKUAZHANGDETOUSHI;XIAOJIAOHENLIUXING,NVXINGGUYICHUANSHANGXIAOJIHAODEXIEZI,SHENZHIYOUXIEDUISHISHANGKUANGREDERENBAJIAOZHIGUQIECHU,SHIJIAOXIANDEGENGJIAOXIAO。

1910NIANDAIDEFUZHUANGKUOXING

SHIJIAN:1914NIAN,DIYICISHIJIEDAZHANBAOFA,ZHEISHINIANFASHENGLEJUBIAN。DONGLIJICHEDEFAMING,NVQUANYUNDONG,YUELAIYUEDUODENVXINGWAICHUGONGZUO,YUELAIYUEQIANGLIEDESHEHUIJINGJIDULIYISHI,ZHEIXIEDOUYIWEIZHESHUFUSHENTIDEJINSHENXIONGYIYIJINGBUZAISHIHEXINDESHENGHUOFANGSHI。ZHANZHENGYECUSHIRENMENSHAOXIEFUHUADURI。

ST厦华 DAIBIAORENWU:FAGUOSHEJISHIBAOLUO·BOLIE(Paul Plirot)

KUOXING:SHOUZHONGDONGSHIZHANGQUNHEYISILANQUNDEYINGXIANG,BOLIECHUANGZAOCHUPANSHANQUN。JINGUANZHEIZHONGQUNZIBIJINSHENXIONGYIRONGYICHUANZHE,DANSHITADEDIBAIFEICHANGZHAI,JIXINGZOUDAILAIKUNNAN。HOULAI,DIBAISHENGGAO1~2YINGCUN,YOUPANSHANXINGBIANWEIKECHUANXINGGENGQIANGDELABAXING,QIZHONGYIXIEHAIDAZHEHUOZHECENGCENGDIEDIE,YUROURUANYUANRUNDEJIANBUXIANGXIEDIAO。

PEIJIAN:FUZHUANGDAPEIHENDADEKUANBIANYUANDINGMAO,GONGTONGGOUCHENGZHEIYISHIQIDEKUOXING。

1920NIANDAIDEFUZHUANGKUOXING

SHIJIAN:ZAIXUANXIAODE20SHIJI,YIGEBEICHENGZUO“NANHAIZISHI”DEXINKUOXINGCHUXIANLE。

DAIBIAORENWU:KEKE·XIANGNAIER(COCO·Chanel)、RANG·PATU(Jean· Patou)。

廓型:这一时期廓型是平胸、平臀、宽肩、低腰。这一时期的大多裙子长度刚及小腿,有手帕式的或不对称的下摆,使得更短的款式得以出

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